White Whine

Yes I said Whine. It's patio season here in North Carolina, though the weather is about as predictable as the Venezuelan political climate. Insert also jokes about Jessica Simpson's weight, Dallas Cowboys playoff hopes and perhaps box office revenues for movies involving Dane Cook.
As we battle the heat wave we find ourselves drawn, like cattle, to the quaint serenity of metal patio furniture. Our brows wet with sweat, we fill our mouths with lighter fair and our favorite white wine. Therein is the problem; our FAVORITE white wine. I have no problem with habit, I myself write with a glass of wine, a cup of coffee and a Coke Zero. It's an quirk of mine, and I may only drink one of them, but I have to have them in case I want one. Creatures of wine habit irritate me, though, and it's as simple as not knowing what you COULD have.
Rhone white varietals are a particular favorite of mine. Call me old fashioned, call me chic, the pervasive flavors of Asian Pear and Apricot jam in any good Marsanne are enough to tingle both my tongue and my typing fingers. Marsanne along with Rousanne and the burgeoning Vigonier are simply a few of the Rhone Clones that are reaching the American market with some real fan fair. A good Chardonnay is exactly that, a good Chardonnay. A good Rhone Style white is both a good white and a secret bond between those in the know. Do you think we wine lovers think, "Shame he/she can't afford this lovely Kissler Chardonnay?" like we apply a monetary denomenation to appreciating wine? I find myself gleeming with joy everytime I see someone ordering outside their comfort zones(at my recommendation of course, please don't go drinking boxed wine just to be a rebel). We wine lovers are more likely to say, "Shame he/she didn't order that Miner Viognier with that Gruyere". The truth is, Apricot is king in the land of stinky cheese, and often enough, Chardonnay and Pinot Grigio just will not cut it.
Beyond those lovely Rhone Whites, we have the Italian "others". Trebianno and Soave are killer patio wines, owing most of their drinkability to a rustic, austere off dryness and lighter bodies. Treb won't kill a formidable cheese, but it will bust a heat wave and clean your pallette. My particular favorite is a Tocai Friuliano, a bigger style white from, duh Friuli. Warm honey and lilac fill the nose, bleeding tones of spiced almond. The mouth feel is huge, not overpowering, but soft and robust. The flavors are decadent, aged honey and beautiful lemon peel are layered with caramel and a tinge of minerality. Tell me that your Chard does that?
I am NOT opposed to Chardonnay, and I am not opposed to Pinot Grigio, I am however opposed to sensationalism. This craze of ordering Santa Margherita and Kendall-Jackson Chardonnay(shudder) gives me a rash, only because it says to me, "I am a zombie to consumer culture". I like Jess Jackson a lot, and I think Santa Margherita can be a very enjoyable 'easy wine', however I do not ever ever ever plan on sampling them in any of my classes. Why? Because you've already tried it at someones house who undoubtedly called themselves a 'connousieur'. If they bring out a tasty Verdicchio or an Alsacien Pinot Gris, drink up, chances are they either know what they're doing or they asked someone who did.
Rieslings, another pet peeve of mine, are NOT meant to be a substitute for Kool-Aid. One of the most Noble Grapes in the WORLD, these beautiful wines have been crafted for the most sensitive pallettes. I find that more and more casual drinkers expect these sugar bombs, and as is the case in most American Wineries that is exactly what they get. Riesling, a German native-son, is in it's best form an age worthy sensation. Light bodied, a good riesling has grippy minerality with soft undertones of wild honey suckle and asian pears. The mouth feel gets bigger as the wine cellars, and can in best case scenarios become a lush marriage of breathy weight and immense complexity. Australia's Clare Valley makes the best, affordable Rieslings of recent. Even the mediocre Clare Rieslings are breathtaking, lowering the residual sugar(what's left over after fermentation) to match the subtle acidity. They are treasured abroad, and that's probably why few get over here. I LOVE these Rieslings, Simon Ossick at Leasingham makes $10 dollar Rieslings that literally bodyslam it's American competition.
As for Germany, I cannot say enough about their delightful style of lighter, drier whites. Silvaner and Muller-Thurgau are atop my list; drying, regal textures make my mouth water, while balanced acidity curls my lips in the best of ways.
Argentian has Torrontes, a Muscat like white that tastes a bit like Five-Alive of the 80's gone by. A delecate mix of creamy pear and wild apricot linger in this light bodied varietal. Rodolfo makes a delicious Torrontes for next to nothing, and it pairs with the summer breeze.
Chile makes excellent Sauvignon Blancs, a well known varietal in it's own right, however they make them a lot more affordable.
France's "other" section includes Semillion; it's the other varietal in White Bordeaux besides Sauvignon Blanc, and Aligote(the other white Burgundy).
Chenin Blanc, sometimes called Steen, is a dying varietal in South Africa. It's a great white, that if done right, battles any good Chardonnay. Kenn Forrester makes an amazingly well balanced Chenin, an honestly, I'd put it up against any Napa white.
I guess what I'm saying is, listen to us when we say we know what you're looking for. Don't tell me you only drink Chardonnays, because I'll tell you that I only give advice to people smart enough to listen to me. I don't think I'm smarter than you, I'm just smart enough to try something new, and in that regard I'm often pleasantly surprised. As a shameless plug to Dolcetto, we have an eclectic staff with varying opinions, so don't be surprised if you get a shotgun blast of varience and education if you come visit us. Either way, make your patio experience better by drinking outside of your comfort radius, it's really the way to learn and enjoy wines in the 'other' section.
Cameron