Monday

Call me a Cab...ok you're a Cab

Forget, even for a second, we as American Wine Drinkers don't covet our Cabernet Sauvignons the way most nations cherish their National Symbol. If you're Australian and reading this, cheers, but you don't count as you eat your National Symbols (the Emu and Kangaroo) WITH your Cabernets. I use this as an example, because the more frequently I watch my students and customers pick out bottles of wine, the more I am convinced of some kind of internal divining rod that hones in on hard-nosed Napa Cabernets. I realize that I have not specified that I exclude Cabernet Francs, as they are rare and often far more complex than some of the mainstream Sauvignons that glut our domestic markets. Cabernet Sauvignon, a varietal that makes up for the majority of mass red consumption, is quickly becoming our 'Recreational Native Symbol'. A true stickler for the boutique, hand-made Cabernet Sauvignons; I pledge my allegiance to the increasingly few high quality yet affordable Cabs in our "bubble-like" market. I say this because as times grow more bleak, there is a certain magnetism to low-cost alternatives, budget beating wines that fall into two catergories: Cheap and Affordable. Like buying a car, sometimes you get what you pay for, and sometimes a walk on the wild side will prove frugal and enjoyable. Expect to pay no less than $30 dollars at best to get a great Napa Cabernet. It's a small plot of land that bleeds too few 'handmade' juice to be a 'sneaky sensation'. Darioush, for example, makes a second-label called 'Caravan' that is a dynamite little low $30's gem. Richard Frank of Frank Family makes a Cabernet Sauvignon that is just down right solid for around $50, and is consistently solid between vintages. You don't have to rush out to Napa either. Sonoma, Paso Robles and even Monterrey County are making solid Cabernet Sauvignons. J Lohr, the popular main stream vineyard that makes the Grocery Store friendly 7 OAKS, also makes a fabulous "Reserve" label called Hilltop, that blends in just a few small percentages of the Cabernet Sauvignon's Noble Varietal "siblings" (Merlot, Malbec, Petit Verdot and the veritable Cabernet Franc). Lambert Bridge, a rising star in the Sonoma scene consistently puts out solid Cabernet Sauvignons. Jill Davis, a student of Andre Tchelistcheff, and a brilliant winemaker in her own right, combined forces with Mitch Gils to produce a darn fine affordable bottle of plonk. If you're truly adventurous, you can look farther north to Washington State, where the Cabs are often more subtle and seductive. Owing it's terroir to significant amounts of volcanic ash and it's climates to much more subdued cooling temperatures, I find that companies like Coeur D'Alene put out amazingly wallet-friendly, tasty Cabernets (Sauvignon AND Franc). If you know me, you'll know my favorite frugal alternative is Chilean Cabernet Sauvignons. Budget-wise it's very tough to beat a good Chilean Cab, and honestly, they are mostly all good. Even the amazing Don Melchor is under $100 dollars, and I'd put that up against any fine wine in today's market. For better deals, look to Veramonte, a sister project to California's St. Fransiscan. Australian Cabernets tend to have what most people, including myself, call a "Donut Pallette". The entry is really tight and austere, but between that and the finish, there's not really much going on. However, occasionally you will find an amazing exclusion. My common favorite is the Bin 407 from Penfolds. Powerfully elegant, it's cocoa and eucalyptus against dusty tobacco spice and hints of fresh tar. I lived and studied wine in Australia, and I find that Penfolds really does it right, provided you aren't scared to spend $25 dollars and up on wine. France leads the way at producing the world's most expensive Cabernet Sauvignons, including the titan-like Mouton Rothchild. It is, in this author's opinion, that with careful research you can find a Paulliac that will stretch your dollar and get you hooked on what is increasingly the best market for truly 'native' Cabernet Sauvignon based wines. Look for an affordable Pichon, they'll peak out like mere ant hills when you're in a big enough shop, but they're certainly around.
Remember that Napa does make some of the world's best Cabs. Napa makes some of the world's best varietals across the board. If you're into spending good, solid money on wine then you may want to try Rudd's Oakville Reserve. At nearly $100 dollars a bottle, you will see exactly why you want to share it. Reaching beyond that, I find that I hold my tongue as to some of the now mainstream, former cult Cabernet Sauvignons that I would probably be crucified to criticize. Don't leave a nasty taste in your mouth because you want to keep your wallet 'web-less'. Learn to adapt, and save the money for those occasions when you want to open Darioush's single label Cabernet Sauvignon (totally worth it). This author couldn't afford a Screaming Eagle if he sold his left and right pouring arms, but then again in not tasting it I wouldn't know if it was worth it at all. Just enjoy it, it's only wine. As hedonistic as this society has become, I shudder to think at anyone not falling in love with wine for wine's sake.
Now go get a drink, what are you waiting for?

1 comment:

  1. A Lambert Bridge Cabernet is quite literally orgasmic. Have you toured the wine country in CA? You really should come for a visit. I'd love to take a wine fan to wine tasting in wine country.

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